Two or three pickup
trucks parked at the street junction already have barbecue cooking up in the
back, with smells of charcoal, hot sausage, and pork chops to drive you crazy.
On a couple of vacant lots, there are little white tents also selling barbecue.
And you can get beer, cold from the bin full of ice, to wash it down. The band
plays “Hi Heel Sneakers,” “When My Dreamboat Comes Home,” “Blackbird Special,”
“Iko Iko,” “Second Line,” “Food Stamp Blues,” and “Gimme My Money Back” — it
has all the wildness and excitement I remember from the Olympia in the late
eighties. The vibe from the crowd is sheer joy, the energy is as tangible as
the electrical charge before a thunderstorm, and the mood is forward — to try
and drop back down the line would be to defy the impetus. The barbecue vendors
have kept pace with the parade, and so, incredibly, have the cold beer
salesmen. Over on the neutral ground (what those outside New Orleans would call
the “median”), a couple of operators are splitting cigars and adding herb to
make “blunts.” Soon, the sweet smell of skunk weed, protected by the sheer
density of the crowd, winds up the euphoria another couple of notches.

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